As it is happening...day 27

The ferry to Vancouver Island, which i made with literally no time to spare afar a 130 mile drive, arrived an hour ago, and i started to make my way to Nicholas's home, where we will spend the night, maybe two, before moving on.   Nicholas was, still is, the guardian of the beautiful German shepherd Kyra, who, like Leben, got around in a wheelchair.  We met by accident, maybe fate, at Cathedral Grove on the way to the west coast of Vancouver Island last year a few days before.  Meeting Nicholas and Kyra was by far the highlight of last year's entire journey. One year ago tomorrow we met up again at Rathraven Provincial Park  to share more time together and more stories about our magnificent dogs.  On my way to Nicholas's, I decided to stop off at Rathraven and visit our site from last year, number 74, to see what memories the visit reignited.  Here is what i just wrote in my journal sitting here in the site:

I am now sitting at campsite 74 at Rathraven Provincial Park where, one year ago tomorrow, the greatest photo ever of Leben and Erde was taken by Nicholas, who visited us with his magnificent dogs, Kyra and Rudy.  Of how joyous that day was, with those two magnificent wheel-chair bound dogs, Leben and Kyra, meeting up once again and enjoying their lives to the fullest. Oh, what i would not do to be able to relive that moment just once more. Oh, how, glorious my memory is of that day, and shall forever be. Those two great dogs are now gone from this earth, but their spirits shall live on in our minds and hearts forever.  As soon as we got out of the Defender, Erde recognized the spot immediately.  Clearly, that day, and many more like it, are living on in her mind and heart also.

Here is the photo Nicholas took of Leben and Erde last year play fighting, i think for the last time, after years of  similar battles before.



Ed and Erde, On The Road



The trip so far...day 27, Tuesday, September 30, Vancouver Island, 4578 miles

We are just about to dock on Vancouver Island, which completes the second of the twin goals of this trip.  We will spend about a week here, and then head south, eventually toward home.

I am still behind a few days in my blogs, but hope to get to them in the next day or so and, then stay current.  In the meantime, i should say that last night in driving down beautiful highway 99 in British Columbia, at 4pm (7pm DC time) i found this unbelievably wonderful isolated campsite by a bubbling creek where we bivouacked for the night.  Of all the sites i have stayed in on my trips, this one had it all, more or less. Details to follow in the posting for yesterday.

Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Days 20-22, Tuesday-Thursdsy, 9/23-25, Whistler Camp, Jasper National Park, Alberta, stay put days

I am writing this on 9/28, a few days behind schedule.

I decided as soon as i got here to stat for four nights here and then two nights at Lake Louise in Banff.  This place is too extraordinary to just pass through, even though i have been here three times before, but just passing through.  

Tuesday

Awoke at 5:30 to a fantastic symphony of birds calling each other this morning.  No symphony i ever attended could match this.  You could head the calls of birds rippling through the forest.

The campsite we are in (1L) is simply splendid, set in a forest of pines, a little bubbling brook in our backyard  The area i am in is only for tenters, so we are among like-minded people.  This is mating season for the elks and we were warned to be on the lookout for a rutting bull who roams the camp looking for challengers, sometimes mistaking a vehicle for another bull.   Bears, too, stop by for the occasional visit. To spare the Defender, i store our food in a locker not far away.

Drove the 3km to the small, lovely, picturesque town of Jasper and first visited Scoops and Loops where Erde got her treat of the.  See photo. Then went to the fantastic The Other Paw Bakery Cafe for my own treats.  If you come to Jasper, you have to try this place.  Picked up a vegan somoa for dinner.  

This trip has seen many highlights so far, but one stands out among all the others.  Last night, Two sites down from us, on the other side of my wonderful and adventurous  neighbors Ian and Steph from Winnipeg, i saw a 1971 blue chevy truck pull in, and out climbed a lone man, who promptly set up camp, and then kept to himself, quietly going about his business. As I passed by his site today, i saw that there was this beautiful Leonberger puppy, a large puppy, 12 weeks old, named Shaylee.  Erde and Shaylee introduced themselves, and then went about their business.  The gentleman, Barry P from nearby Bar Head, as it turns out, is the consummate outdoorsman and dog guardian. He is on a bonding and training  mission with Shaylee here.  What a wonderful and beautiful dog she is.  She challenged Erde only once, when she saw that Erde had a flashing ball she wanted, so i gave it to her, one of three i brought for Erde on the trip.  Barry and i talked for quite a bit and discovered a lot of similarities in our outdoor and dog guardian activities, almost to the point where i could finish his sentences, although his experiences are a bit more extreme than mine.  We also discovered  we had one other sad similarity, we both lost beloved dogs to bone cancer three weeks apart this summer.  I am therefore adding Zoewy, his beautiful 8-year old female Leonberger to the dedication page for this trip. 

Erde continues to try to better her meal at night, and i usually give in. The most stressful part of the whole trip is getting her to eat her food, which most dogs would kill for.  She requires enzymes in her food so anything she eats off if her regular food causes downstream problems, literally. 

Wednesday

Took the usual trip into Jasper today and visited our favorite haunts, Scoops and Loops, The Other Paw Bakery Cafe and another great vegan cafe, Coco's Cafe.  Thank goodness these are not franchises with outlets back home.

Took a long drive down to Maligne Lake today (see photo), stopping at Medicine  Lake, also known as the disappearing lake.  (See earlier photo.) The drive there was just splendid, with Autumn putting on her finest display in this heavenly forest. If i knew that heaven was like this, i would raise my annual church contribution. Just driving through scenery like thus expands your mind and clears your thinking.

The rain came down just as i entered the tent for the night. How i love the soothing sound of the rain falling on that tent.  That, too, is nourishment for the soul.

I read an interesting paragraph in Proust!'s Remembrances if times Past, which i am attaching.  Reminded me somewhat of the purpose of this trip with regard to Leben. I believe that we are made up of the memories of our past and hopes for the future, and that the present is nothing more than a thin line we crossed that turns the latter into the former. 

Thursday...

Rain stopped just before dawn, and then the beautiful bird symphony started. I wish i could understand what they are saying to each other.

Accomplished the usual camp chores today, and then went to town to the usual haunts and then off to Maligne Canyon for an impressive display of nature. See photo.

 Erde is in her element again in this setting, showing behavior i haven't seen in years. On walks, she tugs on the leash in a way i have not seen since she and Leben were pups, and now i finally know who started it.  But her treating ever lake or river as a huge sit-down water bowl is something knew, and so i think she inherited that from Leben.  See photo.

The temperature here was just fine, high 30s-low 40s at night, and low 60s during the day.  I am back to using my summer sleeping bag, the tent is so warm, esoecially with Erde right next to me. We avoided the real cold and snow i was expecting and secretly hoping for.

Tomorrow we head down to Lake Louise for a few days, just down the road 150 miles through a spectacular display of mountains, lakes, rivers, and fields. One can never tire of this, although Erde sleeps right through all of it until the breaks, then she basks in splendo of new smells everywhere.


Photos...
This is what Erde loves about Jasper most. Priorities are priorities.


Barry and Shaylee


From Proust



Erde's sit-down water bowls are wherever we go...


Maligne Lake


Maligne Canyon...450 feet


Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 19, September, September 22, whistlers camp, Jasper National Park, 3711 miles

Day started off beautifully.  Got on the road my earliest, 8:30, because of long drive.


At Vermillion, Erde continued her trick of pretending to want to meet a new dog, but immediately went for the picnic table trying to get a better deal than she thinks she get.  If she only knew the truth.


Vermillion was a wonderful Provincial Park. The kind of oasis you would want to find in a desert.  Two lakes, great camp sites, and all the conveniences of home, more or less.


On the road, I don't have the interest i did over the lsst three trips of listening to music, with the exception of Rachmaninov's piano concerto number 2, Leben and Erde's music.  I am doing a lot of thinking, though, something aided by the long stretches if beautiful highway.


I am amassing a lot of photos of Erde with her new dog friends.  Often we take photos not to look at them later but because we think somehow the act of taking the photo burns it into our memories.  There's probably some truth to that, though, since if we take a photo, we think the scene must be important, and we usually recall things that we have deemed important when we experience them. My guess us that Erde does not think these scenes important, just something dogs do.


Erde is beginning to show her old excitement at arriving at new camp sites and rest stops.  I still findher moaning    from time to time, but who can blame her?  I am still "moaning" myself and she has more of a right to do so.


I wish the departments of transportation up here would post how far it is to the next gas station or rest stops. In places you can go more than 100 miles without any. My new rule, gas up at every opportunity.  Fortunately, i have five extra gallons of gas on my roof rack and up here you can simply stop and pull over for a rest stop.


I needed the newly repaired AC today for Erde crossing the hot plains and prairies, but now it blows hot air after a while. My guess is that the Land Rover service guy either under or overcharged it with Freon. I will get the tech specs for it and have it repaired when i get to the lower 48. No big deal as Erde can move around to find the coolest spot in the Defender.


As I hit Edmonton,  i decided to take 216, the periphery road, instead of 16 through Edmonton.  Big mistake.  As soon as i got on 216, road construction, and delays.  Be advised that i told you in case you happen to wander up here yourself.


Leaves have already turned up here and fallen.  It makes a long trip more colorful, literally.


The day turned ugly as we hit Edmonton, smog or haze of some sort. 


As we hit Hinton, just before Jasper Park, i could not believe what i saw.  In 2001, when Leben and Erde and i took the road, it was empty and Hinton was a sleepy town a mile in from the highway. Now it is a strip about a mike long thick with every kind of commercial outfit you could imagine, even a Walmart, which says it all. Is this progress?


4pm...hit the Rockies and Jasper Park. Wow.  The 30-mile drive to the town of Jasper was worth the entire 3700-mile, 19-day drive here.


Arrived at camp at Whistlers at 5pm, promptly on target. Again, i admire my ability to plan and execute on these trips.


At the camp site, 1L, i am with all tenters.  No RVs here.  While everyone i meet, RVers, tenters, etc. are great, it is special to be among like-minded, or like-equipped, people. We all share something in common others do not, like the cold and rain. But i respect those who can enjoy the great outdoors anyway they can because i cannot imagine not wanting to enjoy it. Of course, the best way to really enjoy it is on backcountry backpacking trips, the memories of my own of which are burned deep into my mind and soul.


A light sprinkle was falling most of the time after i arrived, but we avoided the rain.


My next door neighbors are a lovely young couple from Winnipeg, Ian and Steph, who are taking a similar trek to mine, they for the first time.


I hope to include one photo that represents the day highlight of the day, if i can find one, i have so many.


Sorry, no time to edit this posting now.


For days 20-22, i will probably  post a single combined posting for our stay at Jasper.


4pm, ah, the Rockies at last.


The little objects you see in the photo are not UFOs but spots on my windshield.


Ed and Erde, On The Road


P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 24, Saturday, September 27, Glorious Lake Louise in Banff, As It Is Happening

We are just leaving glorious Lake Louise, Erde's third visit, and my fourth visit, here.  I have photos take in the same spot with Sonntag in 2000, Leben and Erde as pups in 2001, and Leben and Erde last year.

Erde continues to outdo the scenery on her walks in terms of popularity.  Scores of people passed us today, making remarks like "pretty dog" or "beautiful dog."  Again, she is in a number of photo albums for others' visit here.

I can never tire of this place.  I would have my ashes spread here but I am not dead yet, but also because I am sure many, many others have done or wish to do the same and eternity here would then be like living in a condo.

Ed and Erde, on the road



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 23, Sept 9/26 on the road to Lake Louise, As it is happening

I am still a few days behind on my blog.  Hope to get caught up tomorrow after a visit to Lake Louise.  But i thought i would share this now from today.

On the absolutely wonderful 150-mile drive from Jasper to Lake Louise, if i didn't stop every 15 minutes or so for a photo op and walk with Erde, i held the camera in one hand as i drove and was taking shots every minutes, shots i probably have in three other trip photos.  One can never tire of this.

On one stop, as i was photographing the below breathtaking view, i took my eyes off Erde for a moment.  After i took the photo she was gone.  As i turned around to look for her, the second photo shows what i found.  Those ladies were all far more interested in Erde than the view. I think it was because they thought i said she was a wolf, when i actually said woof.  Erde is now in a dozen Japanese photo albums as a wolf.



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Past due posting for Day 18, Sunday, 9/21, Vermillion Provincial Park, Alberta 3261 miles

This posting will be added to the posting already up for this date, and this one delated later.

Sure enough, my next door neighbors partied well into the night and were supplemented by the collective howling of the outside dogs  in the nearby town of Lansgan. Fortunately, an Ambien helped overcome the distraction.

The stretches of highway here are long, flat, empty of human-made things and scenery and hot.  In the distance from time to tine you see a cluster of trees just off the highway and hope it's a picnic area rest stop.  Sometimes it is, sometimes not. We found a nice one 49 miles outside of Lansgan so i decided out to take my chances down the road and so stopped.  Erde was slow to get excited about the place at first but then her instincts kicked in and she took me on a tour of the whole stop, where we were alone.

Every now and then, my mind throws out a thought of how east the trip seems to be thus year compared to previous years.  I stop the thought immediately by attributing it to better organization, which is true.  But if if the trip is easier, the joy is less without being able to watch two dogs enjoy themselves and the pain of losing Leben is still with me. But the joy of being here with Erde is still as great as it ever was, watching her in her old age reap all the enjoyment she can get, although her own grieving has not ended yet.

I am still keeping two dig beds in the Defender, one in the passenger seat and the other in the rear, just as before.  Erde mostly uses the front seat bed, but from time to time she'll retreat to the rear. (In the past, the two dogs would change places simultaneously, passing each other in the middle.  When they did, i would have to shield my face or get swatted in the face by a dog tail.)  Although i keep the rear for her, one side of me says that i am keeping it so that i do not take advantage of Leben's absence.

One big issue i solved this year was about the chaotic stare of the inside of the Defender as the day's trip progresses. Stuff seems to appear everywhere.  The way i finally solved jt is to welcome it.  At the end of the day's drive, it only takes 10 minutes to clear it all up, whereas before it would take 30 minutes on the day's drive to keep it organized.

As this trip progresses, my memory is being ignited with things of the past that i now miss. For instance, for years, as soon as the dogs heard my sleeping bag unzip in the morning, they'd both rush over to me and lick my face ferociously, and then start poking at the tent door trying to beat each other outside. No more. Erde sleeps right through the unzipping of the sleeping bag, although she does eventually make her way to the door to bust out.  She still loves to sit outside the tent alone in the morning, though.  But she is on a 15 foot leash connected to my hand when she does.  There are other things i noted, too, and i will record them later.

Just when i needed my newly repaired AC today, it stopped working again. It starts up cold, but then turns hot.  They probably under or overcharged it.  Back into the garage it goes, but not until after we are back in the states when we will next need it.

In Langham Saskatchewan, at a gas stop, i overheard a young boy telling his mother about the Defender parked outside.  I invited him fir a personal tour, and he seem thrilled.  I think he was more impressed with the sight of Erde sleeping in her rear bed. I welcomed Colton to this blog at the top of this day's original posting.

On these long stretches of rosd, you can go more than 100 mikes without any gas stations or rest stops.  My rule now us to gas up at the start of any stretch with distant towns on the map no matter how much gas i have left. I carry an extra 60+ mikes of gas, but i hate the thought of running out.

We arrived at Vermillion ar 4:30, remarkably on time.  I have to give myself credit for planning my target camps so precusely.  Vermillion Provincial Park is a wonderful oasis of a park just inside Alberta.  Two lakes, trees all over, big camp sites, great facilities, and no bugs despite the heat today.

Tomorrow we head for Jasper, the end of our first leg.  Long drive, though.

Some photos for this day were already posted on the original posting for this day, below.



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Note from day 20, Tuesday, 9/23

I still need to fill in the details for my posting for day 18, and provide a posting for day 19, which i hope to do tomorrow. I will then post one posting for our four day stay at wonderful Jasper National Park, Whistlers camp, where we are now.  I will then delete this posting.  Unfortunately, a pesky ethics issue back home required a couple of hours of my time this morning and prevented me from getting to these postings today.  When i am away on these trips, it is difficult for anything back home to  interrupt my flow, except for ethics issues, which trump everything else just about.  But i don't mind that because when i am in such wonderful settings like i am now, i do my best ethics thinking, mainly because they make pesky issues look so trivial compared to the more important issues, people and things in life.

In short, we made it on Monday from Vermillion Provincial Park to Jasper in great time, arriving after 400 nikes precisely on time at 5:00 p.m. What a wonderful place this is, but I knew that, having been here three times before.  We will spend four nights here, and then head south to exquisite Lake Louise, and then to Vancouver Island.

As it is happening

Here we are in this heavenly setting in Jasper, sun shining, blue sky, 64 degrees, no people around, bears, elk and squirrels all around, and where is Erde?  In the tent, sleeping. Time to wake her to head into the lovely town of Jasper. 



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 19, Monday, September 22nd, Jasper, Alberta, the trip so far, 3711 miles

A few minutes ago, at 5:00 p.m., right on schedule, we finished the first leg of this trip upon arriving in Jasper, Alberta, 3600 miles from DC.  We will stay here for a few days, probably without internet or cell phone, as we settle down in some remote location, and then head for home via Vancouver Island and other points south.




Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 18, Sunday, September 21, Vermilion Provincial Park, Alberta


I would like to welcome to this blog young Colton from Langham Saskatchewan, who got a tour of the Defender yesterday.

I would also like to thank and welcome to the blog the many, many readers of my recent essay in The Washington Post about Leben who wrote or emailed me.  Your sentiments were appreciated.

Unfortunately, because of a long drive today,  i did not have time to transfer my journal entry for yesterday to this blog, but will do so soon.  In brief, Yesterday, we made it to a wonderful Provincial Park  camp in Vermillion Alberta, and today we head for Jasper, the end of the first leg of the trip.  We  will be in a remote camp so internet will probably not by available for a few days, unless i head into wonderful Jasper, which i will do at least once, perhaps to get warm. In the meantime, some photos from yesterday are below.

Here's the rest of the posting I  promised...

Sure enough, my next door neighbors partied well into the night and were supplemented by the collective howling of the outside dogs  in the nearby town of Lansgan. Fortunately, an Ambien helped overcome the distraction.

The stretches of highway here are long, flat, empty of human-made things and scenery and hot.  In the distance from time to tine you see a cluster of trees just off the highway and hope it's a picnic area rest stop.  Sometimes it is, sometimes not. We found a nice one 49 miles outside of Lansgan so i decided out to take my chances down the road and so stopped.  Erde was slow to get excited about the place at first but then her instincts kicked in and she took me on a tour of the whole stop, where we were alone.

Every now and then, my mind throws out a thought of how east the trip seems to be thus year compared to previous years.  I stop the thought immediately by attributing it to better organization, which is true.  But if if the trip is easier, the joy is less without being able to watch two dogs enjoy themselves and the pain of losing Leben is still with me. But the joy of being here with Erde is still as great as it ever was, watching her in her old age reap all the enjoyment she can get, although her own grieving has not ended yet.

I am still keeping two dig beds in the Defender, one in the passenger seat and the other in the rear, just as before.  Erde mostly uses the front seat bed, but from time to time she'll retreat to the rear. (In the past, the two dogs would change places simultaneously, passing each other in the middle.  When they did, i would have to shield my face or get swatted in the face by a dog tail.)  Although i keep the rear for her, one side of me says that i am keeping it so that i do not take advantage of Leben's absence.

One big issue i solved this year was about the chaotic stare of the inside of the Defender as the day's trip progresses. Stuff seems to appear everywhere.  The way i finally solved jt is to welcome it.  At the end of the day's drive, it only takes 10 minutes to clear it all up, whereas before it would take 30 minutes on the day's drive to keep it organized.

As this trip progresses, my memory is being ignited with things of the past that i now miss. For instance, for years, as soon as the dogs heard my sleeping bag unzip in the morning, they'd both rush over to me and lick my face ferociously, and then start poking at the tent door trying to beat each other outside. No more. Erde sleeps right through the unzipping of the sleeping bag, although she does eventually make her way to the door to bust out.  She still loves to sit outside the tent alone in the morning, though.  But she is on a 15 foot leash connected to my hand when she does.  There are other things i noted, too, and i will record them later.

Just when i needed my newly repaired AC today, it stopped working again. It starts up cold, but then turns hot.  They probably under or overcharged it.  Back into the garage it goes, but not until after we are back in the states when we will next need it.

In Langham Saskatchewan, at a gas stop, i overheard a young boy telling his mother about the Defender parked outside.  I invited him fir a personal tour, and he seem thrilled.  I think he was more impressed with the sight of Erde sleeping in her rear bed. I welcomed Colton to this blog at the top of this day's original posting.

On these long stretches of rosd, you can go more than 100 mikes without any gas stations or rest stops.  My rule now us to gas up at the start of any stretch with distant towns on the map no matter how much gas i have left. I carry an extra 60+ mikes of gas, but i hate the thought of running out.

We arrived at Vermillion ar 4:30, remarkably on time.  I have to give myself credit for planning my target camps so precusely.  Vermillion Provincial Park is a wonderful oasis of a park just inside Alberta.  Two lakes, trees all over, big camp sites, great facilities, and no bugs despite the heat today.

Tomorrow we head for Jasper, the end of our first leg.  Long drive, though.

Some photos for this day were already posted on the original posting for this day, below.

Photos..

Driving along the flat, hot plains and prairies of Saskatchewan, in the distance you think you are seeing a mirage of a place to take a respite..

As you get closer, you realize it is not a mirage, but a rare  rest stop


You find the entrance and then you have an oasis, for the next 20 minutes anyway


Erde contemplating her next move as the sun begins to set at wonderful Vermilion Provincial Park in Alberta


Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


day !7, saturday, September 20, lansgan lions camp, saskatchewan, 3014 miles


I woke at 7am and one minute later it start to rain, and continued until we were just pulling out @ 9:45.

Lost a lot of time this morning on pesky little problems that can destroy a schedule.  First one was the zipper on the tent door got snagged on the flap and that took 20 minutes to resolve.  Then the tarp i had set up for the unlikely event of rain just would not cooperate in taking it down.  Then, i could not find the 13th stake for my tent and swept the camp four times looking for it as i have only left behind one thing ever, a pewter wine glass that i left behind at the site in Alaska where i scattered sonntag's and kessie's ashes in 2001. After giving up, thinking it would show up later among my belongings, i started to drive off, but then decided to go back and search one more time.  As good luck would have it, i found it, lodged in the crack between the planks that make up the top of the picnic table.  Finally, the new rear window i just bought before i left, but didn't try out, did not fit when i went to install it today, anticipating the cold weather coming soon. Fortunately, i was able to ad hoc some adjustments to get it to fit.  Four problems, four solutions. Move on.

On the way out of Lake Audy, i drove through the bison enclosure.  Last year, Leben and Erde were both mesmerized by the sight of those mammoth creatures, but this year Erde showed no interest.  See photo.

After exiting the park, we stopped at Poor Michael's Emporium Book Store 20 miles down the road in Onanole for some grub.  What a treat. Their baked vegan baked goods are out of this world.  (The same goes for The Comfort Table in Dryden Ontario). Next time you are in either place, do stop there.

Took a short cut to get back onto 16, route 45, and what a treat that was. I love traveling the empty back roads because the surprises that come along are delightful. And speaking if surprises, Erde almost surprised me again today when she started acting funky, so i pulled over and let her out for a walk.  A run is the better word.  Good move on my part.

I crossed into Mountsin Time today so i decided to take advantage of the extra hour and try for the next camp beyond my target, 45 minutes up the road in Lansgan.  Good move, as we arrived there at 4:55.  Had time after setting up camp and doing dinner to go into town to do laundry and give the Defender a bath.  The camp site itself tis one of the worst i have stayed in, but it was there when i needed it, it was open, and the price is unbeatabke at $12, but still overpriced.  As I write this, at 10:30,  some  neighbors  are partying next door, which means little sleep tonight. 
 

Photos include
Our neighbors at Lake Audy

Erde was not so interested in the bison as much as her busy bone


I swear the person on the left looks just like Erde


One of the surprises as we zip alone the wide open Manitoba prairie, a Russian Orthodox Church. It had to be 100 years old.


Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


days 15-16, Thursday-Friday, September 18-19, Lake Audy Camp in Riding Mountain National Park, Manitoba, 2687 miles so far

Got an early start at breaking camp at Birds Hill park so I could make my appointment at the Land Rover Service Center in Winnipeg, stopping off at a Walmart to pick up a new camera just in case my Casio goes on the blink.  At least it is giving me warning [Lens Error] compared to my Cannon which just went on the blink without warning.  I have bought my last Cannon camera.

I thought my Birds Hill campsite was devoid of other life except squirrels but changed my mind when a skunk ambled by our site this morning.  All it took was  a "boo" from me to get that cute little critter on the run.  Skunks obviousky do not know that they have thre upper hand (or whatever limb you wish to substitute) when it comes to confrontations with humans, humane humans anyway.

Everything is so convenient in Canada.  The Walmart I wanted to go to was just a few blocks off the Winnipeg permineter road on the way to the Land Rover place, which itself was conveniently located right on Highway 1, which I needed to take out of town.  I had to rush through my sale and bought a nifty Nikon Coolpix camera for the price Cannor wanted to charge me for the toy they sold me two years ago, which broke one month after my warranty expired.  Hopeful that Nikons do not go on ther blink as Cannons and Casios do, I still bought an extra year warranty for $20, and then got on my way, arriving at the Land Rover place two minutes before my 10:15 appointment.

What i thought was going to be a two hour wait for my oil change (etc.) and installation of the AC blower took five hiours, as Erde and I, in our camping finest,  sat in the fancy waiting area, sipping the complimentary Starbucks coffee (me), slurping the complimentary bottlked water (Erde), and munching on the also complimentray choicoloate chip cookies (both of us).  But the five hour wait was not the worst of it.  The bill to install the blower, which with shippinhg and duty taxes cost $600, came to $1000, $1600 total.  Ouch.  But you do what you have to do, so I paid it and got on the way, but not before grabbibg two cups of complimentray Starbukcs coffe, a handful of complimentary cholcolate chip cookies and a few bottkes of equally complimentray bottled water, which brought the effecitve price of the not-complimentary installatiin to, I figured, $992.

Before the Defender was ready to go, occasionally we'd take a walk by the pond outside the auto center, where the Canadian geese stop off for a few days to rest before they head south.  It was nice to see how the peoplke here tolerate the geese.  In some places in the states, they declare those who overstay their welcome a nuisance and eliminate them. Maybe someone should rename them American geese to give them some protection on their migration.

By the time the Defender was ready, at 3pm, I hade to make a decison.  My plan was to drive the 250 miles or so to Laker Audy in Riding Mountain National Park in Manitoba, where Leben and Erde and I spent two days last year.  But the trip would take us about five hours, I figured, which we put us into Lake Audy, which is situated 15 miles off the park highwaty down a narrow dirt road populated by bears and bison, among other creatures, long afrter sunset, which I calculated from the sun would be 7:30. I like to get into camps between 5-6, and certainly no later than one hour before sunset, so I can finish with all the outside chores by the end of usuable daylight, usually one hour after sunset.  And I certainly want to be off the highways by dark, especially narrow dirt roads in wildernesses, populated by bison and bears.  So, I asked, do I go for Lake Audy and violate a few rules just to stay on schedule, when i really have no schedule?   Ort do In stay at Birds Hill one more night and get a fresh start in the morning?  Or do I get on the road and drive till I find it necessary to camp at the first site that comes up when I need to stop?  Or do I drive to Riding National Park and stay at the camp at the entrance, then travel on to Laske Audy the next day.  Or do I drive to the entrance of Riding National Park and make a decision about moving on when i get there?  Bear in mind that of the more than 300 days of driving in my seven trips, I have never failed to reach a planned destination, so i carefully calibrate my decisions. Aft some thought,  I chose the last option andf got on the road.

The trip to Ridiing Nastional Park was supposed to take four hours, maybe longer with all the road construction delays, but it took only three thanks to the many 100kph signs all along the way.  Reaching the park entrance at 5:45, knowing that the trip to Laske Audy would take about 45 minutes, and looking at thr sun, which told me I have almost two hours of sun left, I put the Defender  in first gear and headed  toward Lake Audy.  Fortunately, there were no bison blocking the traffic on the last leg of the trip like last year and we made itto our camp site at 6:30, right on schedule.  Good planning.  Good execution.  On the route, by the way, I needed the AC for Erde for the first time since it broke in NY State.  That, too, was an example of good planning and good execution----problem discovered in NY, diagnosed at Matawa Ontario, part ordered from Vermont in North Bay Ontario, part picked up in Thunder Bay Ontario just hours after it arrived there, and then installed in Manitoba, a 13 day, more than 2000 mile solution to a problem solved right on time. Try doing that at home and you'll find that you cannot.

As for Erde, I finally put my foot down on her finnicky eating habits.  If she eats her food on her own, fine. But if she does not, out it goes. She'll eventually figure out my new technique.  But regardless, she still gets a Busy Bone after each meal to keep her occupied and her mind off Leben. I wish they hadj a  Busy Bone for grieving humans, too.

Before I turned off the main highway and out of cell phone range, I looked at my e-mail and found a message from a  friend in my condo, who reported on a condo matter I had an interest in, which, because of a breach of ethics, has been decided another way. Since one member of the board is a reader of this blog ---- hello, John --- and to not soil my blog, i will say nothing more about this except to say that in the setting i am in now, i find such trivial matters risible, knowing that people do such things in my absence. That's what these adventures do for you, put things in their right perspective. With so much that is beautiful in this world, some humans haver a way of lowering the bar for what it means to be civilized. 

Right now, I am sitting here keying this, with Erde sleeping peacefully next to me, a slight breeze blowing off the lake to keep the mosquitoes away, the water lapping the shore.  The sun pops itself out from behind the clouds every now and then, revealing a blue sky that i hope is a good omen for tomorrow.  There are no other camperts in this remote, primitive wilderness site, which has no electricity.  In front of me, 10 feet away, is a 10-foot high cliff, that drops down to Laker Audy, whose entire 4-mile girth spans my entire peripheral vision of 180 degrees, bordered by an unbroken band of trees of multitudinous shades of green. There are no sounds except for the water lapping the shore, the breeze, the occasional birds on land, on the lake, and in thr air, and that hum of insects that seems to be universal.  The only animal life consists of the bison in the reserve in my back yard, squirrels that frequent our site, a bold brown rabbit who is not intimidated in the slightest by Erde, a lone eagle that perches on a tree not far from us, and the shy black bear that ambkled peacefully through our site this morning, leaving his or her calling card nearby.  Wouldn't it be wonderful if somehow we could capture the essence of this setting in all our daily lives?  How civilized civilization would be.

Back to Erde.  In our site, 90 percent of the ground is soft grass, but Erde chooses to lie down in the dirt.  I don't think I every saw her so dirty.  But that problem was easy to resolve by a walk to the lake.

Today was a day off from driving to give the three of us a break.  Tomorrow we are off to Saskatchewan, and then the next day to Alberta where we will reach our first main destination, Jasper,  in three days.  The route for the next several days will be on the Yellowknife Highway, highway 16, also known as the Highway of Tears, which I have only taken before from Jasper to Prince Rupert.

Photos include....

Our site at Lake Audy



Erde waiting for the sunset at Lake Audy.  Those are Leben's ashes to to left of Erde.  He is with us in spirt, and his ashes are a reminder of that.

Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 14, wednesday, september 17, birds hill Provincial Park, winnipeg, manitoba, 2461 miles into trip

It rained all last night but stopped before we got up.  It was cold,  the silver lining with the cold now is that it prepares me for what's coming in the Rockies. 

Every morning i let Erde out of the tent  first to sit outside and enjoy the morning alone, as i did before with Leben and Erde.  This morning as she sat outside alone, in a site we had camped in twice before, i heard her moaning softly. She moans usually at sites we camped in before.  Her memory is phenonmenal.

Last year i bought two new self-inflating, 2-inch air mattresses.  I know that the self-inflating boast is a little bit exaggerated, but i often wondered how good the 2-inch boast was.  Last night i found out.  One hour into what should have been an east sleep, instead felt like i was sleeping on a cold, hard surface, i was.  i discovered i forgot to close the valves and so the air had all escaped.  I was too tired to start the process all over again, so i concluded that the mattresses were pretty good, and slept on.

The hour i gained by crossing the time zone today   i lost in installing a new watch band.  Since i install a new watch band every 20 years or so (i wear watches only on my trips), it took me 40 minutes to figure out how to put the first piece in, but one minute to do the second.  I would rather having been doing something less urban with my precious time.

Everyone is so friendly on the road and in the camps.  Everyone says hello to each other, and bids farewell to those hitting the road.  What a contrast to life in the city. Heck,  my only next door neighbor doesn't even say hello.

Drove the distance to Winnipeg in good time, forgetting that there is no gas station almost 150 miles from Dryden Ontario to 31 miles into Manitoba.    I ran out of gas in 2001 one mile from the station.  I gassed up at a station off the highway in West Hawk this time.  The one gas station on the road near the border i stopped at last year, where a woman proposed marriage, but for my JEEP, was still open, but they don't sell gas anymore.

Got to Birds Hill Provincial Park at 5:30.  This is the most difficult camp to drive around as it is one huge maze with minimum signs, or signs using some codes that do not make sense.

My Casio camera is starting to go on the blink.  These cameras are programmed to go bad with "lens error" messages within two months after the warranty expires.  Tomorrow i take the Defender into the Land Rover service center to install the AC blower, so on my way i'll buy a new camera at Walmart, which is a short way off the highway.  Then we head north to Riding Mountain National Park to a nice B&B at Lake Audy.  B&B, by the way, means bears and Bison.  After that, onto Jasper by way of Edmonton.

Internet may be spotty next few days.

Photos: Erde all snuggled up in the tent set for a warm night's sleep; the fox by our damp at Sleeping Giant.  The ranger told me he saw the fox playing with a skunk the day before.



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 13, tuesday, september 16, Aaron Provincial Park, Ontario, 2154 miles

Left Sleeping Giant to head for Thunder Bay Fedex, hoping that my AC blower arrived.  It had just arrived two hours before i did.  Decided to move on west to Aaron Provincial Park near Dryden instead of spending the night in another Provincial Park near Thunder Bay.  Made it to Aaron right on time, 5:40 (i like to arrive between 5-6) and got my favorite site, where i stayed in 2000 with Sonntag and in 2001 and 2013 with Leben and Erde. If campsites are graded on a scale of 0 to 100, this particular site 35 is a 100 for me.  Sites do not get any better than this.

Erde clearly recognized the site and made herself at home. i immediately took her  to the water where last year i would not let the dogs go in, to their great disappointment, because the water is undrinkable for humans. She immediately lay down in the water and treated it like one big dog drinking bowl.  Another night with a wet dog in the tent.

We are alone in the camp tonight except for the squirrels and bears.  I don't mind the bears, but it's the squirrels i worry about because i fear for their lives with Erde around. 

Set up the tent in a record 15 minutes today, beating my previous record of 20 minutes.  Little things like this go a long way in making a happy camper.

Erde still is a picky eater.  She eats 80 percent of the food i give her, which most dogs would kill for, and i have to spoon feed her the rest.   Hopefully, she will soon figure out that she does not get a "bust bone" until she finishes her food.  Leben, by contrast, never once failed to eat immediately all of the food i put  before him.

Next morning...

After we got into the tent at night it started to rain, and rained all night, stopping just a few hours before we got up.  Perfect.

Every morning, before i leave the tent, i let Erde outside to sit, which she loves to do.  She sat out there this morning moaning, clearly missing Leben.  Later,  to show her that life goes on, A woman passed by our site with her beautiful dog, Lily, a one-year old shepherd, and her young son.  Erde bonded with Lily right away.  The woman told me she wants to get rid of Lily as she is too needy.  Why do people treat animals this way?  I  wanted to ask the woman if her son was needy, but my better judgment told me to remain silent. 

Off to Winnipeg on Wednesday, where I will get the Defender serviced and the AC repaired.  Since it was 48 degrees this morning, i won't need it here in Canada, but it will be needed on my return trip in the states for Erde.  After that, we head to bison country at Riding Mountain National  Park, then to Jasper by way of Edmonton on the Yellowknife Highway, Route 16, the highway of tears.

Photos include

Ed and Erde at Sleeping Giant


Fox visiting us at Sleeping Giant


Our perfect campsite at Aaron Provincial Park


Lily bonding with Erde



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Days 11-12, September 14-15, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, northern Lake Superior, Ontario, 1886 miles so far.

Note: some of my postings may get out of chronological order because of delays in sending some postings as  I update my blog by email and cell service here in Canada is spotty. Sorry about that.  

As usual, i was sorry to have to leave Pukaskwa National Park, but the road beckoned, and so we moved on.  It rained just about the entire 200-mile drive, which i really did not mind.  It's just as cozy for me in the Defender in the rain as it is in a tent at night, which means that for most people,  it would be misery.    The rain did not detract from the splendor of the serpentine drive along the coastal road, taking us on a roller coaster ride through lakes, boreal forest, small distant towns, and virtually no other traffic on the road.  What made it most cozy was the sight of my sweetheart, Erde, sleeping in her front seat, oblivious to everything except whatever dreams she was experiencing.

Before we left Pukaskwa, Gil, the camp host, came by to meet Erde.  After a while he said how lucky I was to have such a wonderful travel companion, and i  did not disagree.  When he said that "L" word, my mind flashed back to May 31, 2001, when i first brought Leben and Erde home, and invited my neighbors, Ben and Rhonda, over to meet them.  After only 10 minutes with the pups, Rhonda looked up at me and said, Ed, you are a very lucky person.  Looking back over the almost 5000 days that followed, Rhonda was so very right.  How lucky i was, indeed, still am.

Before we left Pukashwa, we also took a walk to the nearby beach.  On the way back, as we approached our campsite, i said to Erde, who has formidable tracking skills, Let's go home.  Instead of taking us to site 35, our site this year, she led me immediately to site 34, where we camped  the least two years.  Instead of sniffing around, she started looking around, as if she was searching for her brother to see what he was up to.  Fortunately, she has not moaned for him for more than two days, which tells me she is over her grieving and resigned to life as it is now.  She would be a role model for me, except that i  do not give anyone my paw for treats, and so on, at least not so far anyway.

The rain stopped and the sub came out just before we pilled into Sleeping Gaint Provincial Park, where i camped in 2000 with Sonntag, and in 2001, 2011, and 2013 with Leben and Erde.  we got our favorite site (140A) where the three of us camped in 2011.  I was reluctant to set up the tent in the same location as before since i wanted to keep those memories frozen in time.  We were shortly greeted by the sound of a distant loo, 16 ducks, a beautiful skunk, and a bold fed fox, who was not afraid to come within four feet if me until i shooed her away.

I can spend more time on my blog today since we have a day off from driving.   During the day driving, i write down or dictate notes that i want to record in my journal.  At night, in the tent, i write the days thoughts and activities in my journal.  Then i go through the journal to see what i want to put into my blog.

There is no silver lining in our loss of Leben, but there is a joy i am experiencing that i would not otherwise have had, and that is getting to know Erde better and bonding with her.  Leben did all the bonding, with me and his sister, but it's like i am now getting to know her for the first time.  What a sweetheart she js.

I think i am getting into the stride of this trip.  There are three stages that one goes through with the quotidian chores on these trips, joy of doing them just to be on the road again doing them (2 days),  thinking of them as terrible burdens(3-5 days), and then finally accepting them as part of life, so get over it.  I am at stage three now. One will never love putting up a tent in the rain, but when you accept that as a necessary part of life as it will be, you do it and move on, especially knowing the exquisite joy that these trips with my dogs bring me.  I keep a list at home of the "things" that have brought me the most joy in my life, and these trips top the list. How could i ever have been so blind for so many years to have taken any vacation without my dogs? 

Part of getting into the stride of these trips is transforming you everyday habits, patterns, routines, distractions, diversions,  etc. completely into new ones.  There is not a single one that remains the same, even sleep patterns.  To do so requires adopting a whole new set of rules, and i think i am at the stage where they are now all in place.

This camp is nearly empty.  The first words that come to mind as i think about it are solitude, tranquility, nature at its best, peace and quiet, you can add cold to that list, too, but fortunately there is something i can do about that, like write this posting in the warmth of my tent.

Although my postings skitter among my thoughts about Erde, Leben is never far from my mind.  His (and Erde's) very name over these  last 13 years became synonymous with joy and i want this trip to burn into my mind that very thought.  This is by no means a memorial trip, but a trip of celebration, and i am lucky to have Erde with me to celebrate the lives of those two magnificent creatures.  What joy!

Tomorrow we head into Thunder Bay, where i hope to pick up the blower for my AC at Fed Ex.  We will spend the night at a new camp tomorrow, and then head west to Jasper, which i hope to make in a week.  I need first to buy some additional winter clothes, as i was too optimistic about global warming when i packed.  

Some photos...

Erde sleeping on the drive.  She actually has about a half dozen positions she can take.



Erde posing in front of The Sleeping Giant, where she has posed three times before.



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.


Day 10, saturday, 9/13, Pukaskwa Natuonal Park on Lake Superior, Ontario, 1679 miles so far

We drove from Pancake Bay Provincial Park along a route i have taken five times already and so no planning was needed.  Only difference this time was that there were Provincial Police all along the route, whereas before there were none.  Fortunately, the truckers were always kind enough to alert us with a flash of their headlights, although in my Defender i do not need any warning, but i feel guilt nonetheless.

Along the way, Erde, who usually sleeps during the entire road trip, as did Leben, started pacing anxiously between the front and rear dog beds.  Then i recalled that a few times when she did that, she was telling me she needed to go, badly.  I stopped the car on the highway to let her out, and sure eniugh, she had to go.  I almost paid the penalty for giving her free access ti that bag if dog treats, but thanks to her manners, and pride, neither of us did.
We stopped at our regular rest stop 35 miles north of Wawa at Depew River.  It was there two years ago that i took the last photo of Leben walking.  It was also there one year ago when Leben, anxious to get into the water during our break, raced over the steep incline in his wheelchair, and i had to winch up back up the hill with two leashes, on my back, to get him back up the hill afte his swim.

I was worried at that stop that Erde would long for her playmate, her brother, but A gentleman named Bill, who was there with his daughter Vanessa, served as a good surrogate and engaged Erde in some vigorous play.  In return for his favor, i gave Vanessa, who told me she was on her way to some cross-fit competition down the road, a set of barbells some energetic person who had stopped there before us left there.  How nice of me, huh?

We could not get the site we stayed in on our previous trips here, 34, but that was just as well.  It was at that site two years ago where Leben became paralyzed.  We got the site right next door to it, 35, and it was quite nice, right by the boardwalk and a short walk to this wonderful little bay, the source of the sound of the waves crashing on the shore to facilitate my sleep.  Erde needs nothing to facilitate hers.

The worst part of these trips is Erde's eating habits. Mi never know if she will eat what i put out for her, despite its quality, or hold out for something better, as if there was for a dog, or a human for that matter.  I have finally decided to put my foot down and if she does not eat i give her, that's her problem, not mine.

The pain of not having Leben here is lessening each day for the two of us.  I have not heard Erde moan in two days, and i get choked up less when i talk about him.  The scar will always be there, but the pain is turning into the joy of the memories of that  magnificent dog.   

Today we try for Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, where i stayed with Sonntag on our way back from Alaska in 2000, and several times with Leben and Erde. We'll stay there for a few days, waiting for my new AC blower to arrive in Thunder Bay, and then decide the next leg of the trip from there.

Some photos...Erde digging the exact same hole she dug last year and the year before; campsite at Pukaskwa (Erde is already in tent).



Ed and Erde, On The Road

P.S. Sorry for any errors in this message or posting.  The iPad spellcheck is not known for its attention to detail.